Blue Jean Baby
Written by Sophia Buckholtz
On May 20, 1873, the blue jean was born, and over a century later, it remains an enduring icon. Two San Franciscans, tailor Jacob Davis and merchant Levi Strauss, joined forces to innovate men’s workwear and revolutionize men’s workwear following California’s 1849 Gold Rush, when an influx of miners created a market of laboring men in need of suitable clothing.
The creativity and functionality of the pant’s design allowed for their great success. Indigo-colored denim concealed the stains and discoloration expected in the rugged work of the original customers, and copper rivets reinforced the garment, making it suitable for the demanding toil. The signature horse-embossed leather patch on the back of the pants is not only stylistic but worked to advertise to illiterate customers the jeans’ durability.
Their popularity steadily grew, and by the 1930s, farmers, miners, mechanics, and shop floor workers across the country could be seen sporting the opposing horses. The American cowboy garnered immense fame at this time, often donning the iconic blue trousers. This cultural phenomenon was worldwide, linking the independence and adventure of the cowboy with the blue denim they wore.
Women had been wearing jeans since their creation in the 1870s, but the 1934 invention of The Lady Levi’s welcomed this demographic and, with it, an emphasis on fashion. The key distinction between the gendered pants was in the zipper: men’s had the fly down the front, while women’s had it down the left hip. The garment offered itself as a blank canvas for fashion experimentation: intentional distressing, patch and decal embellishment, dyeing, and pre-shrinking.
Celebrity endorsements played a significant role in the pants' acceptance as casual wear. James Dean in 1955 Rebel Without a Cause, Marlon Brando in 1953 The Wild One, and Marilyn Monroe in 1961 The Misfits served as symbols of the counterculture that baby boomers embraced, as well as their choice in denim. Levi Strauss and Co. had initially patented the blue trousers, but emerging brands quickly followed suit. Sturdy work attire was manufactured by early competitors: Carhartt, founded 1889, Lee, founded 1889, and Wrangler, founded 1947. Despite the diversity in style and production, jeans have consistently been a symbol of independence.
Cowboys, bad boys, collegiate protestors, hippies, punk artists, and everyone in between have adopted the blue denim trousers as an emblem of counterculture movements. And whether it’s bootcut, flared, light wash, or dark, people around the globe have been finding their perfect fit for more than a century. Rock on!
Edited by Hana Razvi, Olivia Daly, Katherine Rubinstein, Greta Felton & Elliot DePerry
