Setting the Scene: The 2024 Oscars and the Art of Costume Design
Written by Roan Vaughan
Few events showcase fashion’s cultural significance quite as publicly as award shows.
Many viewers tune in primarily for the red carpet segments, where celebrities are interviewed about the design process behind their outfits.. However, there's one show that not only celebrates fashion outside of the show but also within it: the Oscars. Taking place in March or February of a given year, the film award show recognizes not only the actors, actresses, and directors who participated in the movie but everyone else behind the scenes who helped to make it great. One of these awards is for costume design. A very subjective award, it often seeks out movies that require specific clothing choices to better immerse the audience into the setting of the film.
This year's nominees, Oppenheimer, Barbie, Poor Things, Killers of the Flower Moon, and Napoleon, include three-period pieces. Every aspect of the setting must immerse viewers in their world throughout the movie. Particularly in films such as Oppenheimer or Napoleon, the protagonists are partially iconic for their outfits, which have defined them throughout history. No matter the year or location, audience members should feel like they’re living in the setting of the movie for its duration, whether it’s World War 2 America, or 18th Century France. Additionally, allowing younger audiences to see past fashion trends or common outfits can inspire new spins on old styles, and can even be a reason to get younger audiences to theaters.
However, with movies like Barbie and Poor Things, new takes on already-known pieces of fiction, it’s up to the costume designers to implement fashion choices that will be stamped into the viewers’ minds long after leaving the theater. Barbie, one of the most iconic figures in pop culture, had never been placed on the big screen prior to this year. As a result, it was vital that viewers were able to gain an understanding of the dynamics of Barbie land visually. Barbie costume designer Jaqueline Durran said that she wanted the wardrobe to feel “timeless”(Phillips). A figure like Barbie, as illustrated in the movie, spans across multiple generations, so it was vital to incorporate pieces people of different ages could relate to.
Poor Things, on the other hand, came from a book of the same name, not a universe known by hundreds of millions. The setting, taking place throughout early 20th century Europe, served as a significant part of the impact that the movie left on its viewers. However, this was also intertwined with the development of Bella Baxter, the protagonist of the film, played by Emma Stone. A piece such as the light blue dress that Baxter wears, in the shape of a cage, for example, highlights her entrapment in her body (Ryzik). As visualization is one of the best ways for movie critics or any movie buff to remember a film, allowing costume design to work in tandem with character development is a perfect way to enhance a viewer’s lasting perception of the movie.
With the 2024 Oscars coming up on March 10th, one of these 5 phenomenal films will be awarded for its creativity or historical accuracy in costume design. My personal pick is Poor Things, whose colorful wardrobe palette played a significant role in my overall impression of the film. However, 4 out of the 5 films are also nominated for best picture and best director, highlighting the simple fact that costume design is monumental to the impact of a film. Regardless of which film wins, hopefully the significance of costume design in high-quality films will be shown on a national level during Oscars night.
References
“‘Barbie’ Costume Designer Jacqueline Durran Says She Wanted the Wardrobe to Feel ‘Timeless’ (Exclusive).” Peoplemag, https://people.com/barbie-costume-designer-jacqueline-durran-interview-exclusive-7569846. Accessed 20 Feb. 2024.
Ryzik, Melena. “Unfurling the Unusual Costumes of ‘Poor Things.’” The New York Times, 2 Jan. 2024. NYTimes.com, https://www.nytimes.com/2024/01/02/movies/emma-stone-bella-baxter-costumes-poor-things.html.
Ilchi, Layla. “‘Oppenheimer’ Costume Designer Ellen Mirojnick Talks Creating a Different Kind of Period Film.” WWD, 21 July 2023, https://wwd.com/menswear-news/mens-fashion/oppenheimer-costumes-ellen-mirojnick-breakdown-1235751008/.
Edited by Caitlin Robaczewski, Olivia Daly, Sam Teisch, and Lauren Veum
