‘That’s so camp’: A Beginner’s Guide to Understanding a Unique Aesthetic’s Presence in the Fashion Industry
Written by Alexandria Speier
I have used the phrase “that’s so camp” as a descriptor numerous times before. And no, I am not talking about pitching-a-tent-and-roasting-marshmallows kind of camp. The essence of camp can be defined as many things. There is no one set-in-stone definition of what the aesthetic is, for that would possibly defeat its whole purpose. Throughout history, camp has predominantly expressed itself in various forms of art, media, furniture, decor and fashion. Additionally, the aesthetic has maintained a longstanding connection with the queer community. Recognizing camp is much easier than defining it. Based on my experiences with camp, it's best to simply embrace the aesthetic for what it is, and you'll soon get the hang of it.
It is important to note that camp does adhere to a couple of rules, which American writer Susan Sontag famously wrote about best in her work “Notes on ‘Camp’” published in 1964. Sontag highlighted that, “The essence of Camp is the love of the unnatural: of artifice and exaggeration.” Hopefully, if you were still confused up until this point, you are starting to understand now. Camp emphasizes the “off” of normality, occasionally even appearing as comical. An outfit, makeup look, accessories etc. can be described as “campy” if they appear so ironically obscure that it actually pleases the eye. Maybe it is the presence of loud prints clashing in a complimentary way or different textures somehow cohesively flowing together. Wild shapes, sizes, layering, colors and accessories can also contribute to a campy look. If you are looking for an example of a celebrity who is frequently campy, none other than Lady Gaga will give you the perfect vision. Whether Gaga is wearing a dress made of meat or a crazy headpiece half her size, she is someone you can rely on to serve “camp” in outfits that catch the public off guard. Sontag noted, “The whole point of camp is to dethrone the seriousness,” which is a sentiment that Lady Gaga embodies.
The 2019 Met Gala put this aesthetic on blast, jumpstarting camp’s trajectory of becoming more mainstream than ever before. While some celebrities grappled with the camp theme, many others made their presence known with their outfits. Katy Perry both figuratively and literally lit up the red carpet with her chandelier-inspired look. You may specifically remember the iconic looks of Kendall and Kylie Jenner. They were famously dressed in purple and orange show-girl inspired feathered Versace gowns. Another unforgettable ensemble was Celine Dion's Oscar de la Renta silver dress. It was accompanied by floor-length glitter fringe and a towering feathered headpiece. Many hot takes stemmed from this theme and celebrities’ choice of outfits. The public argued over what outfits actually achieved “camp” and which stylists dropped the ball with this theme. Some viewers did not like the theme at all, following common misconceptions thinking camp was outrageous or that celebrities made a fool of themselves trying to achieve the aesthetic. But, that leads me to my next point…
At this point of the beginner’s guide, you may have been able to develop a foundational understanding of what it means to be camp. But, maybe you “don’t get it” or as a matter of fact, maybe you do not like the aesthetic at all. The catch is, camp is intended to be that way. It is not for everyone. According to Sontag, “Camp is esoteric – something of a private code, a badge of identity even among small urban cliques.” To further emphasize this point, Sontag also wrote something can not be camp if it is “not marginal enough.” These assertions explain why the Met Gala theme didn't sit well with all viewers, like your grandma or an old high school history teacher. Camp is for those with the eye, who understand and appreciate the obscureness of the aesthetic.
Hopefully, this guide expanded your definition of what it means for a look to be visually appealing if following the camp aesthetic. Not every outfit has to have perfect complimentary colors or a matching purse and shoes to go with. I feel it is most fitting to conclude my guide today with the wise words of Sontag and to restate her ultimate camp statement: “It's good because it's awful.”
Edited by Lauren Veum, Hana Razvi, Sam Teisch, and Maggie Bond.
