The Importance of Black History Month and Iconic Black Creators
Written by Lauren Veum
Black History Month was created to bring attention to the contributions that African American culture has made in the United States. It started from the initial ideas of African ideological influence and its founding of slavery up till the present day. In honor of this month, this edition of The Vault will focus on acknowledging Black presence and impact on the fashion world in the past, present, and the future of fashion as defined by trailblazing artists.
Virginia-born Elizabeth Keckley was a once-enslaved woman who designed dresses for Mary Todd Lincoln in the 1860s. When she was freed, she established herself as a skillful seamstress and paved the way for many other Black stylists. She was considered one of the most influential women in Washington DC at the time due to her passionate activism, immense artistic talent, and admirable writing prose.
The early 20th century introduced Ann Lowe, the first Black person to become a mainstream fashion designer. Her designs were geared towards higher society women, and Lowe designed one of history’s most famous wedding dresses. In the early 50’s, she designed former First Lady Jacqueline (née Bouvier) Kennedy’s wedding gown, to national acclaim. However, Lowe wasn’t credited for her work, which was an unfortunately familiar reality for Black people and women throughout the history of fashion. The national disregard for her undeniable talent, however, prompted Lowe to push through discriminatory barriers. She opened her own store called Ann Lowe Originals, and persevered by keeping her head high and most importantly, her design mentality intact. She is honored today, and her work is recognized and exhibited at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City.
Willi Smith is considered one of the most influential African American designers of all time for his introduction of streetwear, a style that tackles the multifaceted overlaps of athleticism while simultaneously incorporating comfort. Streetwear takes heavy inspiration from Black motifs and culture. Smith’s label, called WilliWear Limited, launched in 1976 and had an estimated 25 million dollars in sales less than ten years later. His invention of streetwear started in the 1970s and flourished in the 80s and 90s. It was a hit in the public eye because of its inspiration and the product scarcity that was happening during this time period. Streetwear has made a resurgence into trends and everyday wear because of creative director Virgil Abloh’s expertise. Willi was, and still is, an inspiration to all fashion enthusiasts, but his creative visions reappeared when Abloh made his career debut. Smith’s perception and natural talent for design democratized the fashion industry.
Kimora Lee Simmons is an entrepreneur, fashion designer, TV personality, philanthropist, author, and model. She launched her fashion line Baby Phat at the cusp of the 2000s, which embodied the innocence and glamor of baby tees and bedazzled jeans. Her company took off and ignited most of the trends that encompass nineties fashion. She is one of the first ever Black designers to start a billion dollar company, and her appreciation and meticulous designs within vintage clothing has kept the memory of 90s clothing alive. Because of the growing nostalgia for the iconic older fashion generation, Simmons has relaunched her brand in 2019 to come full circle in today’s day and age.
Virgil Abloh is one of the most recognizable and exemplary designers and creators of all time. An entrepreneur, stylist, and designer from Rockford, Illinois, he was the first Black artistic and creative director of Louis Vuitton. His debut of the French fashion house’s collections charmed audiences instantly, and his introduction to polychromatic menswear allowed him to conquer streetwear. A UW-Madison and IIT alum, he began his work as creative director, and after launching and closing the shortly-lived Pyrex Vision, he founded Off-White where he was the creative director and CEO. Time Magazine named Abloh one of the 100 most influential people in the world in 2018. Sadly, Alboh passed in November of 2021, but his cutting edge designs, influence, and raw talent will be remembered by many. The Vault has many projects underway to honor Abloh in a more proper and personal manner, and to carry on his legacy.
While this article only highlighted a handful of artists, there are so many more African American icons who have paved the way for fashion throughout history. We owe appreciation and gratitude to those who have used their creativity and passion to signify black excellence in the fashion industry.
